Paris Demystified

Considering a trip to Paris? Maybe it’s your first. Or your Parisian appetite may have been whetted by previous exposure. In either case, Paris—though magical—can be daunting. Confronting language differences, haphazard street patterns, unfamiliar local attitudes, transportation quandaries, safety hazards, and the sheer number of sightseeing and dining alternatives can be overwhelming, frustrating and draining. Too often, the result is sapped vitality that inhibits the visitor from getting the most out of Paris due to tacit acceptance of what might be termed “Paris by default”—making decisions based primarily on what’s expedient, popular, easily accessible or energy-conserving.

We’re a husband and wife team from the U.S. East Coast. More than a quarter century ago, Sally suggested a post-honeymoon trip to Paris. Dick quivered in his loafers as he recalled that his landmark high school French achievement involved surreptitiously sneaking sandwiches in class. But, reasoning that the honeymoon was over and couldn’t be ruined at that point, we went. And we went.....bonkers!!

Over many revisits, Paris has become a treasured haven for us—but not without numerous trials and assorted tribulations. Every trip has taught us valuable lessons—which leads us to the unique niche of this book, written for tourists by veteran Paris tourists.

There’s no way you’re going to experience every facet of Paris during one, two, or even ten visits. It’s prudent to prepare for each visit with a strategic “plan of attack” to ensure that, by the end of your trip, you’ve sampled a thorough cross-section of the City of Light while accommodating your time frame and your budget.

Traditional guidebooks contain overwhelming masses of information and detail. But, unlike a typical guidebook, Paris Demystified focuses on guiding you as you customize your strategic plan, set your priorities, and maximize the efficiency of your visit. Use this book to develop your strategic plan; and then consider referring to standard guidebooks to supplement the many details we have provided. If you’re a first-timer, what are your most pressing concerns after your plane lands? (No, we mean besides finding a “toilette.”) Our guess is that you’re anxious to surmount often-daunting logistical barriers so you may “hit the ground running” and maximize the time you spend enjoying yourself. We've developed an innovative series of strategies toward that end, with an emphasis on avoiding time-consuming pitfalls as you become comfortable with the logistics of Paris.

We’ll go into detail about when to take your trip, how to choose a hotel, what to pack, negotiating the airport, alternatives for getting into the city, quickly familiarizing yourself with Paris, dealing with currency exchange, short cuts to coping with language differences, efficiently planning your sightseeing, avoiding petty theft, and more.

You’ll find overviews of 70+ major attractions with addresses, hours of operation, nearest Métro stops, and phone numbers. Sift through them; decide which ones appeal to you; and refer to a conventional guide book to supplement what we say about them. We've also developed several half-day, geographically clustered sightseeing modules combining popular and “under the radar” attractions.

One of our goals is to introduce simplicity to situations that can lead to confusion and fatigue. On our first Paris trip, Dick insisted on making the restaurant reservations and dealing with taxi drivers in his very tentative French. Much of what he said (or thought he was saying) wasn’t understood—especially our name. We realized it made sense to spell confusing words. So we scoured guidebooks for a phonetic French alphabet. Proving unsuccessful, we have since created our own. It will prove helpful in making dinner reservations, giving street names to taxi drivers, introducing yourself, etc.

By the way, Dick continues to practice his slowly improving French by making most of our arrangements in Paris. Sometimes, he and his stubborn streak encounter an equally obstinate Parisian who's determined to try out his or her English; and the two tenaciously carry on a bizarre conversation in each other's language.

The pseudonym for Paris is the City of Light—NOT the City of LightS. While Paris does feature brilliant lighting, it is the inner glow of personal enlightenment that most typifies the city's unique charm. In this jewel of a metropolis, we are infused by feelings of well-being. In fact, each of us has elected Paris as the place to recuperate from major medical procedures.

People ask us what’s so special about Paris. We've discussed this query over many pleasant glasses of wine. Is it the spectacular vistas? The fascinating people-watching? The legendary cuisine? The fashion sense? The monumental icons? The aura of timelessness? The outdoor markets? The storied museums? The idyllic parks? The classic architecture? The café life? The romantic strolls? The poetry of the language? The energy the city exudes? To some extent, it’s a confluence of all of the above.

But our powerful bond to Paris is, first and foremost, a function of the kinds of people we become when in Paris. We observe and find ourselves reflective. We explore, and our senses are heightened. We discover and are uplifted. We dream and find ourselves transported. As Gene Kelly's Jerry Mulligan says in the movie, An American in Paris, "It's too real and too beautiful to ever let you forget anything." Notwithstanding the split infinitive, he has a point.

For some readers, this book may infuse a practical sense of reassurance in dealing with Paris and Parisians. Others may find their previous Parisian horizons broadened. Whatever your situation, our ultimate objective is to help you avoid "Paris by default" and connect with Paris in ways that will usher you down the pathway to an enduring, passionate connection with this magnificent city.